Striking colour similar to the number 8 that you described, extremely comfortable, and surprisingly light feel on the foot for a heavy shoe. It gets compliments often. Particularly, the Alden 986 loafer. If my shoe size is UK 8.5 and most of my trousers leg openings are 18.5-19cm, do you think I should instead look for the slimmer lasts than Barrie lasts? Alden certainly do, yes. They seem to be similar to my childhood notion of what an adult mens shoe looked like. I belief you own shoes in both models. Would you consider adding any cordovan accessories? For me dark brown (chocolate) suede remains probably most versatile in combination with denim/chinos, aside from the equally versatile color 8. No comparison to Rendenbach soles. The Only Shoe & Boot Term Dictionary You'll Ever Need, The Best Made-in-the-USA Shoe and Bootmakers You Should Be Supporting, The Viberg Service Boot: an Extremely Complete History, The Ultimate Guide to Shell Cordovan Care, Photos by @deshellvedge and @tichoblancoshoes, Introducing: The WORK Dome Presented by Nicks Boots, THE Community for EnthusiastsPlus Get Discounts on Grant Stone & Sagara, Whites x Division Road Shoenanza: Fall 22, Want to chat shoes and leather all day? Is Alden your preferred brand? Please send me pictures! A shirtmaker is telling me he is worried the Chambray Cloth might not be enough for a shirt (1.1 x 2.5m). Any plans on covering EB loafers (particularly their cordovan)? Finally, even scratches and nicks can be rubbed out to an extent, with the help of a deer bone (shown above, at Ludwig Reiter). Simon Crompton If yes, what model do you prefer between this prototype and the NW1? Brilliant. Thanks Simon, that is a very important point you make and something Ill need to research, while my mind is still conflicted, that would be the starting point. Unfortunately Alden is also quite restrictive about international shipments and you cant order from the US to deliver to the UK. I love loafers but I have a high instep and wide feet. They'd become a bit darker. In my far less informed opinion, they go very well with traditional navy, but especially mid gray worsted or flannel. If were talking about just cordovan in Color 8 colour, then: 1) To an extent, though I think the brown has to be pretty dark Ive resigned to the fact that unique oily finish, with the rolls and that dull glow as you nicely put it, is truly unique. Im considering adding a loafer to my shoe collection to fill a gap. Hi simon i believe the full strap pictured above is in the aberdeen last? Im unsure if I should size up have a size or go with a 7.5. It would be hard to go wrong with a work boot with jeans Amit. Thanks again for taking the time to reply. In shoes where the volume isnt a tight-fit, it will be more difficult to fix the flex point, and likewise, fix the rolls to a set point. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); document.getElementById( "ak_js_2" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Ive had my Alden/Brooks tassels in #8 for more than ten years now, resoled probably three or four times. It sounds like they maybe havent had shoe trees in them all the time as well? Learn more through here. The second pair produced by a well respected British manufacturer were rubbish. Ive used Reship a couple of times before. Hi Simon, The difference for calf is much smaller when its black, Hi Simon Hi Jesper, My pair looks more like a brown with a reddish undertone. Given the price of shell cordovan shoes, and the issues with water uncoated/untreated, Im not sure I am gong to rush to get a pair.That said, many shoe aficionados love the materialI remain intrigued Just to clarify: the Aldens you are wearing have a shorter than usual vamp and that style can only be purchased in the US? This process leaves the material with a very high . I have never liked wearing brown shoes with either navy suits or charcoal suits, as I prefer the shoe to be darker than suit, and therefore opt for black. In both cases the material is just one factor. Hi Simon is that the rubato jeans your wearing? Yeah done a cordovan care guide, can be found here: https://shoegazing.com/2017/04/02/guide-care-of-cordovan/ I also do like tassel loafers, but find them a bit hard to wear without appearing somewhat affected (they are a bit unusual and sadly often worn by a certain type of fashion-guy, at least were I am from). I purchased them at Neiman Marcus in San Francisco during a close-out at a substantial discount about 10 years ago. As a long time fan of both Alden and Cordovan, Im glad to see youre a convert. Just use it very sparingly, as cordovan doesnt really need it much. Designed by Out of the Sandbox. It is this texture in the creases that I think make it bridge formal and casual clothing. But if you find you have some scratches that you want to remove immediately, and if the. Yes Id love to get down to Atlanta. Grain leather requires filling in the pores beforehand, whereas shell cordovan does not. See comments above on availability in the UK Steven. i find the low vamp a bit unsuitable for the winters though. The reason I did that was that Id always found the classic Van-last loafers to be too chunky for me. Would love to see an article on types of shoe leathers (wallets, belts, etc.). Theyre really nice. The aforementioned techniques with a bone or spoon can help smooth over rough scuffs on the surface of shell cordovan. Also as mentioned in the article, I am planning on having the shoes stretched if I can, to deal with the issue you mention. I do have dark raw indigo jeans,olive and khaki chinos and real mccoys beige chinos and later would add ecru jeans. In early June, I left them out when it rained a bit. If I remember correctly, you wear US 9E in EG 184 last. 2) Does cordovan get darker over time? These characteristics are as follows: 1. If they can be saved, you should do so if you like them. I just might get a pair.. they look great with Denim. If you buy from a link, we may earn a commission. My interest in good shoes started when I bought some Santoni black cordovan chukka boots in an outlet shop in Kitzbuhel for about a hundred quid. A written apology. The leather (shell cordovan) was immediately prized for its . Good to see that you mention Vass. My alden loafers have a slightly lesser version of that in the roll. Learn how your comment data is processed. Mine have all been within the past 4-5 years. Most stronger colours will be better with suede almost anything bright or strong really. And your pair look totally dark, so dark that I find it difficult to believe it is a No.8. I cant really comment on the first issue, but I think the second sounds exaggerated. Just got a pair though I am yet to try it on. Appreciate your site, especially during the coronavirus pandemic. Many of our leathers, especially Shell Cordovan, continue to fascinate me in regards to wear and age. I think Ive just been so attracted by the unique look of colour 8 that Ive always gone for more styles in that same colour, instead. Simon The search continues for a boot that can go with nice denim and smarter trousers. Maybe inside a humidor??? Apologies, yes youre right Visa. What do you think of cordovan shoes made by UK manufacturers like Crocketts? Have you seen this article on shoes with brown trousers? There was nothing wrong with them (although they were a bit stiffer than calf) but, for the price, they were just a bit underwhelming and I occasionally felt the need to tell people they were Cordovan. Im not surprised that the Aberdeen last has caused you more discomfort than the Barrie, it is not nearly as forgiving. I receive comments/compliments on these shoes (far more than others), typically from older gentlemen who tell me they have a similar pair and have worn it for decades. All my other pairs are dark brown suede or traditional calf (black/brown). Unlined cordovan loafers. 3. 1) Can I say cordovan shoes can be worn with both black and brown belts alike in most outfits? READ!!!! I think it is really unique and pleasing to my eye because of the short vamp. P.S. Id definitely go for the Alden tassel loafer, as that would add something genuinely different to what you already have. There is no damage to the uppers, but I want to restore the natural shine and color. Id seen a few examples of #8 shell fading to medium brown with lots of wear. I have seen that, and it does look like a nice colour. May I ask: how do the C&J Cavendish and the Belgravia and their vamps compare to the Alden? Although I was just changing browns,I used Fiebings deglazer prior to dyeing. 8 pairs of the color 8 from Alden.. but not these loafers. Thats the most important time. Cordovan is more durable. I quite like the cream sweater you are wearing in one of the photos. Yes, I know what you mean. Crockett & Jones has several boot models and perhaps even a shoe or two available in cordovan. Interested to hear any thoughts (from you or anyone), I wouldnt wear a cordovan belt probably, but I have a wonderful cordovan notebook, which has aged very well (here) and I like the T-style wallet in cordovan too. Hi Simon, See something like my oundles from Edward Green for example. As there is no chance to try on any of these shoes in calf, I thought I ask here Thanks in advance! How do you find they look against more formal, refined trousers (e.g. Above all, each piece is different. Thank you! 1. Simon Personally, again as mentioned, I find the Aberdeen is nicer with slimmer legs on trousers, and is smarter. These were mostly from vintage shops and eBay. great post, as we are used to it! Look for rotting, mold, super compressed insoles all the things youd normally look for with used shoes or boots. Hi Simon, But I still dont quite understand your preference for Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds. Yes thats right. I think that shows how Alden from a make point of view is really mid-range or lower the expectations get rather inflated outside the US by the prices, and particularly the extra price of cordovan. These Alden on the Aberdeen last are size 9 US, so roughly 8 UK, D width. Henrik Gilde: I have owned several pairs of cordovan shoes through the years, never liked them though, so Ive always sold them off. Enjoy. I know you mentioned in this post, you prefer the slimmer lasts. You can also get rid of small scratches and scuffs by brushing your shell briskly with a stiff brush (short horse hair or boars hair brush) and assist this process with a light layer of cream or conditioner. What do I regret? Normally I would go 0.5 size up on oxford and derby last in EG. I recommend 1-2 thin layers of wax, before starting the buffing process. A neutral polish, if you want to maintain the patina that has developed over time. How would you compare no 8 to John Lobbs museum plum color? When looking at potential alternatives to No.8 that are UK based, do you have a view on EGs nightshade and burgundy options? I find it difficult to decide between going a full size of half from the regular UK size. I havent yet added any cordovan footwear to my collection yet, so I found this article intriguing. Hi, Its not an Alden thing, by the way - its the same with my Edward Green black cordovan (shown below). Id also seen examples of shell exposed to sun lightening up quite a bit. How do I get rid of scratches and scuffs? Id love a new highly versatile boot at around this formality that could last over a decade. Recently Ive been struggling to figure out how to buy a perfect denim shirt. Color 8 is by far the most common color of shell cordovan available. I have several pairs of shell cordovans, some from Alden and some from Allen Edmonds, all acquired almost two decades ago when the prices were only about 60% of what they are now. It is all essentially corium. Thanks. Your BB were by Alden and pretty sure all Alden Shell Cordovan has this acrylic finish, most others dont add that to their shell. Have you seen the hudson loafer? Id certainly wear them with, for example, charcoal flannels, knitwear, and a raglan coat. If you dont own cordovan, or have been put off by it in the past, Id put forward two major arguments. Where is it from? Some water spots become more difficult to remove if you dont address them quickly. Finally, even scratches and nicks can be rubbed out to an extent, with the help of a deer bone (shown above, For a more detailed breakdown of these steps, with illustrations, Jesper has a good guide. Brush, vigorously, for several minutes using a horsehair brush. do you think the full strap in calf is easier to wear in and adapts faster? Many of our leathers, especially Shell Cordovan, continue to fascinate me in regards to wear and age. I see. As Nick Horween told us. For new shell cordovan shoes, you will want to establish a fixed flex-point. Hi Simon, I wear a 7.5 on my C&J Cavendish tassel loafers and am thinking of getting the Alden 684 pennyloafer in color 8 you have. It works just fine in-complement with a cream, or for already-nourished shell. Now, however, they are best described as brown-ish with a slight burgundy tint. And given how the shoes will be worn (mostly denim) the slimness was not that much of a concern. Im not sure how it works out with cordovan, but its rare that leather like this can sustain farming of animals on its own. one mor question. Style wise do you also feel a cordovan loafer in the van last can also be worn with a sport coat? So, apply them in very thin layers using your fingertips, or a thin cloth. Just checking you dont think I am here? 2023 Ashland Leather. I never understood what the bone should do, either. Any thought / insight would be much appreciated (and justified by the title of this article;). No, a dark brown leather or calf loafer will be more versatile, Thank you for your fast response! BTW, Shellac is like a lacquer, used in felt hat making too. But if you have the means to get a pair for yourself (whether thats with an employee discount or not), Id say go for it. Have you noticed your shell cordovan loafers becoming any more comfortable after wearing them for some time ? Interested in how you wear the black cordovan tassel loafers. I think last shape should really by driven by your foot and what style you want. Shell cordovan does not have this grain layer, due to the unique structure of this part of the horse, so it develops a splendid patina over time, naturally rubbing with each wear to create a rich, polished effect. Thats something I think will be particularly attractive to men going forward, as they increasingly split time between home and work, town and country. Very nice people though ! Please. Its just really hard for calfskin to compare to. Speaking of black, I bought those EG loafers in black cordovan largely for its toughness, but it doesnt have the same variation as colour 8, and therefore charm. If youre not in the right financial position, your feet can wait. i think all i need is another 3-4mm wider. No worries at all all comments are always welcome, on any vaguely related post. Not necessarily size up from my normal size, but if I was unsure at all, or felt I was between sizes, then picking the larger one. No I didnt have that issue with this Trunk one. Thanks! I hoped that the strong June sun that was coming would speed things up. I havent tried it David, no. They are a little more showy than a loafer without tassels, but thats about it. No problem at all. Remember its already pretty oily. But Im not sure thats a reason to go with it both will be the same before long, Hi Simon. But Im afraid no, I dont think they would work with smarter trousers like flannels. I love loafers but I still dont quite understand your preference for over... 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